You Turn the Key and the Car Won’t ‘Turn Over’.

Stop and listen to your car. It may have left you stranded, but it’s still considerate enough to give you some gentle hints as  to why. If you’ve tried turning the key and the engine won’t ‘turn over’ at all, it may not be as bad as you think.

While many people automatically think “alternator!”, the culprit is most likely your battery, especially if you’re stuck in cold weather. If your car has responded with silence:

• Check to make sure that your car is in park. If the transmission is in gear or neutral your car won’t start. It may sound silly but it’s been known to happen.
• Make sure that your alarm is not activated. As a security measure many newer model cars won’t start if the alarm is engaged.
• If you’ve checked all of those things and your still stuck… it’s time to check the battery. Check your lights, power windows and radio. If the lights are dim or not working at all, or your power windows and radio won’t work you may have poor battery connection or a dead battery.
• Check your battery cables to make sure they are tight and that there is no corrosion on the terminals.  These conditions can keep your car from starting. If loose, tighten them up accordingly. If you notice any corrosion, remove the battery cables and clean them thoroughly.  Using a wire brush is often the easiest way to remove corrosion from the terminals. Now tighten the cables to the terminals and try to start your car again.
• Still no luck… it’s time to consider another culprit.

Is your car is clicking while you try to ‘turn it over’?

Again, stop and listen to your car. A telltale, but not fool proof sign that you need to replace your starter,  is the dreaded clicking while trying to ‘turn over’ your engine. In this case, you probably won’t be able to properly diagnose the starter or repair it yourself.  This type of repair calls for a professional. If you ever encounter the ‘click’ and your engine ‘turns-over’ anyway… it’s a good idea to get your car to  a professional immediately.  It’s just a matter of time before it won’t ‘turn-over’ at all and you’ll be stranded.

If you’re stuck and all you’re hearing is a click, call a  tow truck and bring your vehicle in for an inspection.  A Wear Master Certified Technician can diagnose the problem and advise you on the best course of action to take to get you back on the road in no time. For the location nearest your home or office, you can always go to www.keepmichiganrolling.com

You’ve found a car that seems perfect. The price is right, it drives well, and has all the features you’re looking for. But is it too good to be true? Whether you’re at the dealership or buying from an independent seller, you can’t always trust the salesman to reveal the dirty little secrets of their products. It’s important to learn how to spot red flags on your own. Here are some tips to conduct an effective vehicle inspection.

Bottoms Up

Grab a flashlight and start with the undercarriage. Look closely at the condition of each of the components. If you find something that looks newer than the rest, and the seller hasn’t told you of any repairs, he’s probably hiding something. Also inspect the framework and floor pans for rust, and check the ground for signs of drips and leakages.

Tired Tires

A vehicle’s tires can be a surprisingly good gauge of the car’s condition. Check for wear by inserting a penny into the tire treads. If the top of Lincoln’s upside-down head is visible, the tires probably need to be replaced. Perform the penny test in multiple places along the wheel tread to see if the wear is even. Uneven wear can be a sign that the car is misaligned, often due to a serious accident. Check that the condition of the tires is appropriate for the mileage. If the car has low mileage and worn tires, there’s a chance that someone tampered with the odometer.

The Walk Around

Many buyers do a walk-around inspection without knowing what to look for. Your primary targets are rust and damaged seals. Check the lower part of the body for exposed metal, rust, bumps, and discolored paint. Some rust is to be expected, especially near the wheels. Use a refrigerator magnet to check for repaired panels on all sides. If the magnet sticks in some areas and not others, there might have been extensive repairs. Make sure the doors, windows, and trunk close and seal properly.

Under the Hood

Don’t be intimidated. Even auto-novices can easily spot issues in the engine compartment. Make sure everything looks clean and rust-free around engine. If there are signs of newer paint, or if the bumpers around the hood have been painted over, the car has likely been repainted due to damage or rust. Make sure the oil is clean and at the correct level. If not, it’s a good indicator that the car was not well cared for.

If you know what you’re looking for, you can keep yourself from making a terrible buying decision. Avoid the pressure to hurry the inspection, and make sure you look over every inch of your new vehicle.

• Regular maintenance per the factory recommendations – By changing the oil regularly, getting new belts, replacing filters, flushing fluids and putting in new spark plugs you can avoid expensive repairs in the long run.

• Keep a close watch on Fluids – Make sure oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid and antifreeze are always checked.  These fluids can be monitored when you bring your vehicle in for an oil change.  If there is a problem it can be found sooner rather than later.

• Check for oil spots under the car – Spots on the ground could be a sign for bigger problems to come.   Check out our previous blog post “Why is My Car Leaking? A Wear Master Detection Guide” for further details.

• Check under the hood – Open the hood while the engine is running.  Check for anything unusual by sight or sound.  Do you see cracked hoses, exposed wires, leaks?  Get familiar with your vehicle.

• Unload Extra Weight – Never use your vehicle for transporting heavy objects .  Weighing down your car accelerates wear and tear on the engine and tires.  Another tip:  Remove anything that causes additional drag. (ie) Roof racks not in use, cargo carriers, etc.

• Eliminate short trips – Trips under 10 minutes are hard on an engine.  Extend your trips with grouped errands to give the engine enough time to heat up, reaching peak operating temperature.  If short trips are inevitable, allowing your car to warm up, just a few minutes before you throw it into drive will help.

• Keep your car clean – Wash and wax the body to avoid rust and dirt build-up.  Don’t forget to get the under carriage washed as well.  Winter is here and Michigan salted roads cause havoc on metal both outside and underneath.

• Be aware of extreme weather conditions – Always be prepared for the cold months with proper antifreeze.  In addition, keep your gas level above a quarter tank full to prevent gas line freezing.  Check out our previous blog post “Winter is Approaching.  Is your Vehicle Ready” for further details.

• Always use a trusted and reliable mechanic – The more a mechanic is familiar with your vehicle, the better.  At Wear Master, we keep a history on each vehicle assuring diagnosis of problems before they start.

And finally and most importantly, stop by the Wear Master location nearest you to take advantage of our free Keep Your Car Rolling program where we’ll do a 60 point check to let you know how to keep your car on the road and avoid an unnecessary new car purchase.

Wondering what you should keep in the car in case of an emergency? What parts you should have checked out before driving? Below are a few simple tips that will keep you safe and keep your vehicle in good working order over the winter months.

Coolant – Be sure to have your cooling system flushed and replace the coolant. It’s imperative to have the proper mix of antifreeze and water.

Windshield Wipers and Fluid – Replace the wiper blades and add fluid in the windshield washer reservoir. Be sure to use approved fluid, water will freeze your lines. Keep a reserve bottle of windshield fluid in your car.

Battery Check – Have your battery serviced and tested to check its’ ability to hold a charge. If the battery is more than 4 ½ years old, replace it.

Transmission Flush – A vehicle’s transmission, is one of the most expensive parts to replace. By replacing the transmission fluids, you reduce the amount of heat, and friction lengthening the life of your transmission by years.

Brakes – One of the most important safety features on your vehicle. Without them in optimum condition, stopping will become delayed.

Struts & Shocks – Suspension and steering systems are responsible for keeping your car stable and suspended. Without proper maintenance, you risk accelerated tire wear, increased stopping distance and poor vehicle handling.

Tire Pressure – Air contracts with cold temperatures, and tires may deflate. Keep tires at recommended inflation to ensure the best contact between the tires and the road. Proper tire pressure also increases gas mileage.

Thermostat – Ensure your heat and defrost systems are emitting enough heat to melt the snow and ice while keeping passengers warm.

Oil Change – Oil is the life blood of your vehicle, always make sure to change it at the manufacturers specs and mileage to get the most life from your engine

Belts & Hoses – Extreme temperature changes are rough on a vehicles belts and hoses. Be sure to inspect and replace the corroded and warn rubber.

Emergency Kit – Having the right tools available when needed can save your life. Gather and store in your trunk:
• Emergency flares
• Cell phone
• Working jack and tire iron
• Good spare tire
• Extra quart of oil
• Washer fluid
• A can of “Fix a Flat” may help get you off the freeway in a pinch
• Did you know that having a candle in your car can help prevent hypothermia in case of a winter breakdown?

Stop into one of our 15 locations and have a Wear Master Certified Technician inspect your vehicle and prepare it for a incident-free winter.

Right now, we are offering 10% off all Winterizing Maintenance.

Listen, we’re all trying to stretch our money as far as it can go. So why do we give up on a car that’s “built to last” – so quickly?  Why spend tens of thousands of dollars on a new car when for a fraction of that price we can keep it on the road for you?

Introducing our KEEP YOUR CAR ROLLING program at Wear Master. Just stop by and for FREE  – We’ll do a full KEEP YOUR CAR ROLLING inspection and tell you what you need to keep that car on the road for another 2 years, 5 years or more!

Sometimes it’s just replacement parts and sometimes it’s a quick repair. So what do you have to lose?

Stop by the Wear Master nearest your home or office and ask for the FREE KEEP YOUR CAR ROLLING Inspection. Only at Wear Master.

And for the few of you we can’t help? We’ll be glad to give you recommendations on where to get your next car.

Wear Master – We’re Just a Michigan Company fixing Michigan Cars at KEEPMICHIGANROLLING.COM

You’re driving home from work when suddenly you see a light in the shape of an engine illuminate your dashboard. You pull off the road to check it out: sure enough, it’s the “check engine” light (CEL).  Now it’s time to panic (just kidding). Stay calm, and consider the most common source of this warning: the gas cap. Is it tightened? Check/tighten it, then drive for 15-20 minutes to give the warning light time to turn itself off.

Pay attention to other signals from the CEL and the car’s corresponding performance:

Minor issue

• Warning: the light’s on (even intermittently) or flickering
• Performance: no noticeable performance issues
• Solution: Keep driving, but get the car checked out as soon as possible.

Major issue

• Warning: the light stays on
• Performance: There are noticeable performance issues
• Solution: Get off the road as soon as you can; tow the car to a professional for service

Vital issue

• Warning: the light blinks steadily (not flickers)
• Performance: accelerating leads to flashing light (i.e., total emission control failure)
• Solution: Immediately get off the road; tow the car to a professional for service

If you’re confident there’s no engine/emission problem or you’ve fixed it (or are about to fix it), then it’s time to turn off the engine light. Can you do this yourself? Maybe. Depends on the age of your car.

For pre-1996 cars

If your car was built before the mid-90s, all you need to do is open the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal for about 30 seconds. When you restart the car, the light should be off again.

For post-1995 cars

The engine lights in these vehicles use different technology, and they’re not so easy to reset. You’ll need to go to a repair shop to have a mechanic turn it off with a special scanner. Alternatively, you can go to auto parts stores to use their scanners and get the diagnostic codes for your vehicle’s engine problems—national chains often provide this service for free.

Terminology lesson

check-engine light/malfunction-indicator light: “CEL”/“MIL”

diagnostic trouble code: “DTC”

If any of the issues below are among those you are experiencing you should seek a qualified diagnostician to help you determine the root cause of the problem.

Do You Have Any of These Symptoms:

Engine Light On–Dashboard light prompts you to “Check Engine” or “Service Engine Soon”.

Strange Noises–Makes clicking, knocking, screeching, buzzing, whistling, clanking, or grating noises. Unusual sounds can come from hood or rear of car and may include a hum or low whine.

“Morning Sickness”–When the vehicle is cold, it won’t move, or it shifts late during the first few minutes of operation.

Slipping–Engine races, but vehicle moves slowly or won’t accelerate as it should.

Stalling–Vehicle stalls or labors on takeoff.

Doesn’t Go–You place the shift lever in Drive and nothing happens. Even racing the engine does nothing.

No Reverse–Vehicle doesn’t move when shift lever is placed in Reverse.

Leaks–Fresh fluid stains under the vehicle.

Loss of Power–Passing gear won’t engage, and there’s no surge of power when you press the pedal to the floor.

Erratic or Improper Shifting– Noticeable early or late shifting. Unexpected shifts, or speed at which shifts occur keeps changing.

Shift Handle Stuck/Sticks–Shift handle is hard to move into or out of any position.

Vehicle Moves (or Jerks) in Park or Neutral– May be when you first start the car or before you turn it off

Strange Smell–Burnt or rancid odor is coming from under the hood or underneath vehicle.

Shift Indicator Off–The indicator must be slightly off (P) or (N) to start the car. Shift indicator doesn’t point to the proper range.

Metal Shavings or Debris–Inspection or transmission service reveals excessive amounts of debris in the transmission pan.

1. It’s an easy decision for customers with today’s gas prices
2. Extended life systems
3. Variety of gas quality and grades
4. Poor adherence to vehicle maintenance